Monday, November 7, 2011

Refashion: Remodelling a shirt


This shirt is going to be part of my demonstration at the Viva-La-Gong Festival this coming weekend (Saturday 12th November). As you can see you get the before and the after all in one!

What I did:
Darts in the front and the back, as well as taking in the side seam to shape the shirt a little better. The shoulder was still a little big so I also added two little pleats to take care of that. The sleeve was the trickiest. I did want a puff sleeve. I unpicked the sleeve and traced the shape of the sleeve pattern. I also unpicked the cuff from the sleeve. Then I used a 'slash and splay' technique to create the puff sleeve pattern: I spaced 5 vertical lines evenly spaced across the sleeve pattern (not under the armpit though), cut along these lines, spaced the pattern pieces about 1" apart, redraw the sleeve pattern. I then used the sleeve to cut out the new sleeve pattern (I did need the join two pieces to make a piece of fabric that was wide enough). I then re-attached the cuff (with a gap to make sure it goes over my arm/elbow). The collar was also modified: unpick the back of the collar, turn inside out as much as possible, re-stitch collar to the size you want, trim excess, turn right side out, topstitch opening shut.

Do I like it?:
Apart from the obvious fact that only half the shirt is done, it does seem to fit really well and I can't wait to do the other half!

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Refashion: Jacket to Vest

So here starts my "Wardrobe Refashion Month"!

What I had & what I wanted:
I had this jacket sitting in my wardrobe for a couple of years. But never wore it because it was just a bit too tight across the back. I would get it out, try it on again, and put it back in the wardrobe. For a while I have wanted a vest that was a bit military, or a bit worn, but not 'pretty' for the in-between months.

How I did it:
First to come of was the sleeves. I just unpicked them. Next came the collar. Then work out where you want the new neckline to be (somewhere between two buttons, and make sure you miss the button hole on the other side). There is a facing on the front of the jacket up the the shoulder (this one is not lined). So un-pick enough button holes, buttons, and top stitching so that you can turn the facing to the outside. Stitch the new neck line, trim the facing, and turn the facing back to the inside. Fold as much as practical around the neck (around 1/2" if you can) and top stitch the new neck line and back of neck. Again turn as much as practical around the sleeve and top stictch along the edge. To get a nicer finish around the arms, trim the folded seam where needed, and do another row of topstitching. This will not look like a proper made garment, as there should be a facing around the arms too, but we are making do here, and shortcuts are the name of the game! If you really wanted to you could trace the outline of the arms holes and make a facing from a contrasting fabric.

Do I like it? Would I change anything?
I really do like this, and wouldn't change anything. I did this about a week ago, and I've already worn it twice!